3 Day Itinerary In Hualien, Taiwan (三天花蓮行程)
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NOVEMBER 2024 UPDATE:
Hualien was the epicenter of the 7.4 magnitude earthquake on 4/3/24 so some of the attractions referenced in this blog post may be closed for repair. Taroko National Park was hit the hardest and is currently closed to all visitors. The government is working on reopening in phases so check the official website for details on specific attractions.
However, the city is mostly fine, so if you feel comfortable with visiting, it’s definitely still worth seeing. Your economic support could mean a lot to the local community right now.
Heads up that Provincial Highway 8 is currently closed due to the impact of Typhoon Kong-rey but trains should be operating as expected!
You can also donate to government-organized disaster relief by following the instructions outlined by Focus Taiwan.
Hualien County (花蓮縣) located on the east coast of Taiwan, is one of the most underrated places in Asia.
It is a mountainous region known for towering peaks, vast skies, pebbled beaches, lush vegetation, cultural diversity, and friendly people. Like Lanyu, Lyudao, and many other destinations on Taiwan’s East Coast, it often ranks a little lower on people’s travel bucket lists because planning a trip takes more effort and time.
Taiwan’s High Speed Rail runs down the west coast of the country and makes exploration of the cities along that coast extremely accessible. In contrast, Taiwan’s east coast requires travel by local train or car. It’s time intensive and can pose a barrier for those who only have a day or two to explore the region.
That being said, even if you are short on time, you should definitely still visit Hualien (especially if you’re a nature lover). This county is home to some of Taiwan’s most stunning views (Taroko Gorge, anyone?), cozy coffee shops, and unique indigenous culture.
This itinerary will walk you through some of the top attractions if you want to DIY the trip yourself, but if you prefer that someone else do the planning, you can explore a plethora of guided options on Viator or Klook.
Weather:
Taiwan’s east coast is known for turbulent weather. Rainy season runs from mid-April to mid-September, but definitely pack rain gear because the chances of rain even during the dry season are still pretty high. We visited in January (technically dry season) and it still rained the entire time.
Please note that this mountainous region is also prone to rockslides which are exacerbated by storms. If you plan on exploring the outdoors, keep an eye out on local weather reports and listen to the authorities when it comes to safety.
Transportation:
Hualien’s public transportation is pretty sparse. There are a handful of bus routes that run locally in the area and a small number of shuttles that run specifically to Taroko Gorge, but your best bet is to rent a car. I usually just book a car beforehand via Klook because it’s easy to navigate in English and streamlines the experience.
Where To Stay in Hualien:
Depending on what you want to do, I’d recommend that you either stay in directly in Hualien City or in Taroko National Park.
Because of the nature of the terrain and the fact that it’s a national park, there are fewer hotel options around Taroko. However, staying close-by can give you a different experience of the park at night and make it more convenient to explore in the daytime.
Alternatively, if you plan on spending only a few hours at Taroko, Hualien City might be the better accomodation option. It’s a 30-minute drive from the national park, offers many more options, and gives you access to other regions and townships in Hualien county.
You can even opt to split your accommodation up with a few days in the city and a day or two in the national park.
Here are some of my top hotel picks in Hualien City:
Here are some of my top hotel picks around Taroko National Park:
Day 1: Traveling from Taipei, LiYu Lake, QiXingTan, Checking InTo AirBnB, DongDaMen Night Market
My friends and I visited the county in January 2022, and I revisited the region with my significant other this year (2024) in March. This itinerary is a compilation of the two visits!
Traveling From Taipei:
We decided to keep the first day’s schedule relatively simple to balance out all the travel logistics. We took a local train ride down from Taipei on a Thursday. This trip took a little over two hours (though some rides can go up to three hours depending on the route) and cost 440 NT (roughly $15 USD).
Booking Your Train:
To book your train ride on the Taiwan Railway, visit their website or download their app. There are multiple train lines, which can sometimes be overwhelming, but if you just enter your departure and arrival stations, their website should calculate the trips for you.
I usually go to 711 or a convenience store to print the tickets but if you have the app, you can simply scan it when you’re ready to board. For those that prefer a more analog approach, you can also go to your departure station and buy a ticket from the ticketing booth. Please note that local trains only offer non-reserved seating, but for express and limited express trains, assigned seating is available.
Arrival In Hualien:
We arrived a little past noon and booked a rental car from across the train station. There were literally so many rental companies that I couldn’t find the exact one to reference again. It might be helpful to compare prices beforehand, but they should all be quite reasonable. Make sure to always get additional insurance for any damages and if you’re using your phone to navigate, you’ll want to choose an eSIM that connects to Chunghwa Telecom as they’re the provider with the most coverage in remote areas.
After deciding on a compact, automatic car, we threw our bags in the trunk and headed off to grab a quick lunch at 龍大刈包. They’re a little roadside restaurant that offers to-go buns only. My friend’s aunt recommended them because they had vegetarian options!
From there, we drove about 20 minutes to LiYu Lake (鯉魚潭).
LiYu Lake 鯉魚潭:
LiYu Lake or Carp Lake is the largest lake in eastern Taiwan. It’s said to be particularly beautiful in late spring and early summer when fireflies abound—lighting it up from above. Like most lakes in Taiwan, there is a visitor center and plenty of opportunities for water sports like kayaking, paddle boating, or light boat sailing.
Because it was drizzling the whole time, we only walked for about 30 minutes before heading back to the car. However, you’re visiting when the weather is nice, it’s definitely worth staying longer.
QiXingTan 七星潭:
QiXingTan is one of Taiwan’s most famous pebbled beaches. It’s located at the tip of a crescent-shaped bay and looks out into the Pacific ocean.
In general, Taiwan’s eastern coastline is pretty rugged and while it isn’t the best for swimming, it can be great for surfing. Other than the expansive shoreline, QiXingTan is also known as a popular spot for stargazing.
We went in the dead of winter, it was a little underwhelming because of the weather, but regardless, it was still a nice change of pace from the mountains and rivers of Taroko.
Lunch At 私雅廚:
We decided to head back to the city for lunch and stumbled across this adorable restaurant. They were just opening for the day but the shop owner still welcomed us in.
We honestly had no expectations but they went above and beyond in service. The restaurant uses ingredients exclusively from local farmers in Hualien area and they serve a limited menu of only three or four entree options a day. They keep everything local, in season, and fresh, and were extremely accommodating of our dietary restrictions and allergies. The portions were huge and it really felt like you were being taken care of.
Heads up that there’s no menu and I’m not entirely sure of the shop owner’s proficiency in English, but if you can converse in Chinese, I highly recommend that you check it out!
Checking In to AirBnB:
For my first trip, I rented an entire floor of a loft in Hualien City with my friends.
The hosts were a young couple that met us in-person to exchange keys. The process was seamless and the property was beautiful with a huge amount of space and brand new appliances! The beds were comfortable, everything was impeccably clean, and the living area was very cozy. They even had an in-unit washer and dryer which was really essential because all our clothes had gotten soaked.
The First AirBnB That We Booked
The second AirBnB that I booked was also spacious but just a tad smaller. It was a two bedroom, two bathroom accommodation with a full kitchen and living room right across from DongDaMen Night Market. I really appreciated that the kitchen was fully stocked with essentials like working appliances, oil, and salt. The host was really sweet and even gave us some local recommendations.
Coffee Break At Caffe Fiore
After a long day of driving around, we decided to refuel with some coffee. I went for a trusty iced Americano and my partner grabbed one of the recommended daily brews. Caffe Fiore is located in the center of the city and features a cozy interior space with natural wood furnishings, trinkets and books, and two adorable cats. I really enjoyed the vibe of the space and their cakes were also delicious!
DongDaMen Night Market 東大門觀光夜市:
One of the things Taiwan is most known for is its night markets so we couldn’t miss the opportunity to explore the most popular one in Hualien. DongDaMen Night Market is pretty large and laid out in a U configuration. We found a lot of the stalls repetitive but did enjoy some of the aboriginal options and traditional candies.
Highlights To Try:
Taiwanese pork sausage
Grilled corn
Grilled mochi on a stick
Millet wine
Oysters
Day 2: Exploring Taroko National Park & The Coast with BaiYang Trail, WenShan Natural Hot Springs, ShaKaDang Trail, and Qingshui Cliff
We decided to spend the majority of our second day in Taroko National Park 太魯閣國家公園 with a few pitstops along the coast on our way there and back.
Taroko National Park is one of Taiwan’s nine national parks. It’s named after the Taroko Gorge, a landmark that spans 19 km in length and features walls made of marble carved out by a winding cerulean river. It showcases some of the most stunning nature that Taiwan has to offer and is home to Taiwan’s second-largest aboriginal tribe–the Atayal tribe.
Because the national park spans over 1200 square kilometers, we decided to commit an entire day to hiking its trails and exploring its natural beauty. The trail heads in Taroko National Park are quite far apart so I recommend renting a car or scooter to travel between them. Please note that this region is prone to rockslides, so a car might be the safest option.
NOTE: as of April 2024, Taroko National Park is closed for restoration. I will update this post when it reopens to the public.
BaiYang Trail 白楊步道:
BaiYang Trail is a moderate, well-maintained trail that highlights a lot of waterfalls and tunnels in the national park. It’s named after the BaiYang Waterfall at the end of the trail and along the way, you’ll have to snake your way through some dark and creep tunnels. Depending on the weather, it can get quite wet so make sure to pack a poncho and a change of shoes (or wear water resistant shoes).
The trail took roughly two hours to complete and was well populated. There were young children walking with adults and plenty of signs that warned about regions prone to rockslides.
WenShan Natural Hot Springs 文山溫泉:
After the hike, we decided to go for a soak. WenShan Natural Hot Springs is one of the best-known natural hot springs in the area. It’s technically still closed after a rockslide in 2005 killed one visitor, injured seven others, and destroyed several of the facilities, but the attraction is still popular amongst locals and tourists alike.
To get to the natural hot springs, park at the WenShan parking lot and then hike downhill for approximately 15 minutes until you see a short suspension bridge. Cross it and at the end of the bridge, there is a staircase to the left. The stairs are railed off by a closed sign, warning you of dangers, but you can choose to hop the fence at your own risk and make your way down to the river. The stairs are extremely slippery so take your time and definitely use the ropes for support.
At the bottom, you’ll find remnants of the original hot springs structure. Most of the area has been destroyed, but new visitors have created small natural pools blocked off by rocks.
When we visited, there were a good amount of people soaking (always a good sign). There was even a tour guide and an older gentleman that seemed to just be keeping an eye on everyone.
Take your time and enjoy the soak but please remember that doing so is entirely at your own risk. The region is extremely prone to rockslides and given the history, it’s important to stay vigilant of changing conditions during your exploration.
ShaKaDang Trail 砂卡礑步道:
ShaKaDang Trail was by far my favorite experience in Taroko Gorge. This “Mysterious Valley Trail” is incredibly scenic and does a fantastic job of highlighting all the natural wonders that Hualien has to offer. This was an easy hike that took us about two hours round trip, but we thoroughly enjoyed the stunning views along the way.
Qingshui Cliff 清水斷崖:
Our final stop on day 2 is just a little further north to Qingshui Cliff. This scenic viewpoint gives you impressive views of the eastern coastline. Park you vehicle in the designated parking spot and then make your way down the paved path to the different wooden platforms. We even walked all the way down to the driftwood-strewn pebbled beach!
Day 3: Hualien Cultural and Creative Industries, Exploring The City, LinTianShan Forestry Culture Park
For our third and last day, we decided to spend our time exploring the forests and museums a little further south and then retire early to explore the city. Our first stop on the agenda was LinTianShan Forestry Culture Park.
LinTianShan Forestry Culture Park 林田山林業文化園區:
LinTianShan Forestry Culture Park is a former lumber town in Hualien County.
One thing I love most about Taiwan is that the government’s transformed so many historically significant industrial towns into new and relevant cultural centers so that the younger generation (and tourists) can learn about Taiwan’s history experientially.
LinTianShan Forestry Culture Park preserves some of the original architecture of the offices and residential buildings used by the loggers during the Japanese imperial era. It also showcases some of the original railroad tracks and provides historical context to all of these important structures.
The park is free to explore and we definitely took our time with it. Halfway through our adventure, we decided to take a break to enjoy afternoon tea and simple desserts at their Japanese-style tea house.
Tafalong Museum (O kakimadan no to'as no Tafalong) 太巴塱文物館:
The Tafalong are one of the biggest indigenous Amis communities in Taiwan and the Tafalong Museum provided a great introduction into their culture with small interactive displays highlighting anthropological artifacts. They even had an interactive audio exhibit that allowed visitors to record messages for others to listen to! The exhibit that we attended is scheduled to end August 2024, but I’m sure that they’ll have plenty of other exhibitions following it.
Tafalong Museum (O kakimadan no to'as no Tafalong) 太巴塱文物館 on Google Maps
Fuyuan National Forest Recreation Area 富源國家森林遊樂區
We were on the hunt for hot springs and ended up at the Fuyuan National Forest Recreation Area instead. They had a small outdoor bathhouse but since it was mostly aunties and uncles soaking in there, we decided to explore the hiking trails instead. We took the loop to the suspension bridge and back, and the almost 4 km trail ended up being a little more challenging than we expected! The views were definitely worth it though.
Fuyuan National Forest Recreation Area 富源國家森林遊樂區 on Google Maps
Hualien Cultural and Creative Industries Park 花蓮文創產業園區:
After a long day of exploring, we headed back to the city.
Hualien Cultural and Creative Industries Park was a wine-making factory during the Japanese imperial era. In 2011, the government changed the space into a multi-purpose public park for community-use.
The architecture was well-preserved and I loved that they’ve done a great job of introducing new exhibits and highlighting creative endeavors from local artists. We stopped by the local crafts market (weekends only) and took some photographs.
Hualien Cultural and Creative Industries Park 花蓮文創產業園區 on Google Maps
Cafe Copita:
Hualien actually has an extremely strong coffee scene with a lot of cute, photogenic cafes and Cafe Copita was no exception. The space was huge and they had several seating areas. It looked like they served alcohol in the evening and also sometimes had events in the space. The staff was kind and accommodating.
島東譯電所 (Art Cafe/Bar):
One of my friends recommended that we check out this art cafe/bar. Their decor was really cool and the walls showcased art from local creators. We ran out of time but the cocktails looked tasty and it seemed like a great place to hang.
The Fishery 定置漁場三代目:
Last but not least, you can’t finish a trip off without dinner, right?
We grabbed seats at the bar counter at The Fishery—a family-owned eatery serving up ramen and seafood dishes. There was no wait when we went, but we made sure to get there early. The oyster croquettes were delicious and fried fish was also battered to perfection. The ramen noodles were cooked to your desired hardness and the broth was unlike anything I had ever experienced! 10/10 recommend that you check them out!
Overall Impressions & Thoughts:
Hualien county was really fun to explore! Taroko National Park was definitely the highlight as the views were just so incredible. Seriously, it left me in complete awe at how beautiful this Earth truly is.
The city itself was also surprising. I really didn’t expect there to be such an inclusive food and beverage scene. I really enjoyed the cute coffee shops and that most of the restaurants we ate at had vegetarian options. Tzu Chi University (a private university founded by a Buddhist organization) is located in the area and I think that helped to open up the vegetarian options.
It was really great to see such an emphasis on local cuisine and supporting local farmers. I think that’s one thing that’s missing in a lot of Taiwanese cities but it’s great to see that Hualien has created such a culture.
In the future, I’d love to spend more time exploring Taroko National Park but overall, this Hualien trip was a beautiful balance of nature, culture, and modern Taiwan.
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