Can Sustainable Fashion and Inclusive Sizing Coexist?
Sustainability and inclusive sizing are two of fashion’s biggest problems. As intersectional conversations around social justice, climate justice, and inclusivity have taken center stage in the media these past few years, consumers have begun to demand more from their go-to brands. Whether that’s asking for a larger range of sizes to fit more body types or completely boycotting fast fashion brands in favor of slowly produced designs, consumers are no longer accepting sub-standard products or company values.
Before we start, let’s define a few things…
What is “sustainable fashion”?
On a personal level, sustainable fashion can take on multiple different identities. Other than the traditional understanding of shopping for sustainably made clothes, a sustainable wardrobe can also consist of items that you’ve thrifted, swapped, or upcycled (more here). For the purpose of this article, “sustainable fashion” will refer to sustainably produced new garments.
“Sustainable fashion is a movement and process of fostering change to fashion products and the fashion system towards greater ecological integrity and social justice. Sustainable fashion concerns more than just addressing fashion textiles or products. It addresses the whole system of how clothing is produced, who produced it, and how long the lifespan of a product is before it reaches a landfill. This means dealing with interdependent social, cultural, ecological, and financial systems.” (source)
Because every step of production needs to be sustainable in order for a garment to be “sustainable fashion,” it is highly unlikely that there is a single brand out there that is meeting all the requirements. It’s incredibly difficult for a corporation to track every single step along the production line and even more difficult to ensure that their partners maintain the standards that they say they do.
Now, what makes fashion size-inclusive?
Fashion is size-inclusive when a single collection makes it a priority to sell the same design in all size ranges. As opposed to collections that separate plus offerings from straight size (sizes 0-14), size-inclusive stores will have the same styles in a size 2 and in a size 32.
So, these are two of conventional fashion’s biggest concerns and they’re not mutually exclusive.
Why does sustainable fashion have such a big size inclusivity problem then?
The answer is in the fatphobic nature of fashion.
American women who wear clothing sizes 14+ account for 68% of all shoppers (source); they make up the majority of consumers and yet fashion brands (including sustainable ones) choose to ignore this fact. Despite the obvious financial benefits of tapping into this $1.1 billion market, brands choose to produce a smaller range of sizes, citing production costs as the reason behind the business decision. When the numbers truly don’t add up, we have to take a deeper look at the inherent fatphobic nature of the fashion industry.
Diet culture and fat-shaming have been a part of fashion forever. Clothes sell because retailers associate their products with a sexy image of what the ideal woman or ideal lifestyle looks like. Even if brands could double their profits, they choose not to extend their sizing because this would shatter the fantasy that they’ve so carefully created.
The thing is...people no longer buy into this fantasy. Brands are banking on the idea that everyone to be thin and this isn’t the case anymore. We’re seeing a rise in self-acceptance and the inclusion of people with all body types in all conversations.
When it comes to producing size-inclusive clothing, it ultimately comes down to doing what’s right. Plenty of fast fashion brands have begun to make this shift, but why are sustainable fashion brands so slow to follow suit?
Could it be that the nature of sustainable production does not mesh with size inclusivity? Is it even possible to produce size-inclusive sustainable fashion?
The answer is yes; it is possible to produce size-inclusive sustainable fashion and it is absolutely paramount that the sustainable fashion industry begins to move in that direction.
But let’s break this down a little further…
What are some of the barriers that sustainable fashion brands may come across when producing size-inclusive clothing?
Challenge 1: Fabrics for bigger bodies require more stretch and that typically requires some sort of non-biodegradable synthetic textile
Many sustainable fashion brands opt for natural fabrics because they will eventually biodegrade and leave a smaller impact on the planet. Bigger bodies, however, typically require fabrics with more ease in the way they move and unfortunately, many of the traditional stretchy and flexible fabrics require some sort of plastic-based synthetic fiber.
Challenge 2: Creating for a larger range of sizes requires more upfront investment
You cannot create clothes for bigger bodies by simply making larger versions of straight-sized patterns. In order to make sure that the fit is appropriate, brands need to adjust the pattern, hire plus-size fit models, and because plus-size bodies are also more diverse, brands will likely spend extra time on making further adjustments to the original designs.
Sustainable fashion brands typically have a smaller profit margin, and that might be one possible explanation as to why existing sustainable fashion brands are slow to extend their sizes.
Challenge 3: There’s more risk involved for both the consumer and the corporation
Plus sizing is more variable and sustainable fashion already tends to be more expensive than conventional fashion. Customers have to take a huge financial risk when buying products that may or may not fit them and brands adopt a similar risk in the case that a customer returns the product.
The model of only creating clothing in straight sizes has been tried and tested over the course of decades but size-inclusivity is something that brands are only just now starting to consider. The framework for a size-inclusive model is relatively unexplored and this makes the entire situation riskier from a business perspective.
This ultimately comes down to how a brand defines sustainability and its willingness to incorporate these upfront costs and risks within the business model.
Sustainable fashion and size-inclusive fashion have their fair share of challenges but despite this, it is on the industry to address those difficulties, innovate, and come up with solutions that are both in environmental alignment and resonate with the demands of the majority of their consumers.
Sustainable fashion and size inclusivity must go hand in hand in the future of fashion. As new technologies develop and additional concerns are brought up, brands must shift their practices in order to remain competitive.
