4 Day Itinerary In Penghu, Taiwan (四天澎湖行程)
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Penghu refers to a collection of 90 islands and islets in the Taiwan strait off the west coast of the main island of Taiwan. If you’re looking for a slower pace of life, white sand beaches, delicious seafood, and a blend of culture and nature, then look no further! Here’s my 4-day guide to Penghu.
Getting To Penghu
You can either travel to Penghu either by air or boat. While it’s definitely cheaper to take a ferry, I highly recommend just flying directly because it’s simpler, faster, and more reliable.
Planes leave for the main city of Magong from Taipei, Kaohsiung, Taichung, Tainan, and Chiayi and typically run between $4000 NT and $5500 NT roundtrip. A quick search on Google Flights or Booking.Com will help you find the best flight for you.
If you plan on taking a boat, ferries leave from Kaohsung Port, Budai Harbor (Chiayi) and Anping Harbor (Tainan). The ride itself can take anywhere from 1.5 hours to 4 hours depending on the ticket and approximately costs $2000 NT roundtrip. Please note ferry rides can easily be disrupted or canceled depending on weather conditions. If you’re traveling during typhoon season (summer) or in the winter, I’d keep a close eye on the weather forecast and announcements made by the company you booked with.
I usually book my ferry tickets in advance from Klook but you can also purchase them when you get to the harbor. Make sure to check the details on different different operators, prices, and schedules on the official government transport site.
Getting Around Penghu
Walking is a perfectly fine choice if you plan on exploring one centralized location (like Magong city or other small villages), but a lot of Penghu’s signature sights are pretty spaced out.
Therefore, the best way to get around would be by car or scooter. Most hotels and hostels can organize this for you, but you can also use third-party operators like Klook or KKDay to book your vehicle beforehand.
As with any car or scooter rental situation, make sure to bring your international driver’s license or local license (if you have a Taiwanese license). Your license type should match up with the vehicle type that you intend to borrow.
If driving or scooting isn’t a viable option, you can take taxis or book a private driving service for the day. You can also consider renting a bicycle but please note that if you’re traveling during the summertime, it gets extremely hot and sunny and the last thing you’ll want to do is bike from destination to destination. (Heads up, it gets pretty hot if you’re scooting in the summer as well; driving is much comfier.)
Where To Stay In Penghu:
If you’re only in Penghu for a little while, I recommend staying in Magong City 馬公市. Magong is the biggest city with the most activities and attractions. It’s where flights land where a good proportion of ferries dock. It’s also centrally-located so that you can access more destinations with ease.
Here are some of my top hotel picks in Magong City:
Itinerary
So, without further ado, here’s a 4-day itinerary of what to do in Penghu!
Day 1: Traveling from Taipei, Checking In To AirBnb, Xiying Rainbow Bridge, Harbor-Side Chilling
Flying From Taipei to Penghu:
My friend and I met at Songshan airport for our flight down to Penghu. It was my first time flying domestically in Taiwan since the Covid scares earlier this year and I really didn’t expect there to be so many people at the airport.
We arrived at the airport about an hour before our flight with Uni Air, checked our bags (they allow one checked bag per passenger), and made our way through security. The flight took about one hour and was approximately 80% full with a mix of families, adult travelers, and Penghu residents.
Arrival, Car Rental, Airbnb Check-In:
Our Airbnb host organized a driver from the car rental place to pick us up and bring us to retrieve our car so with the exchange of a few texts, we met up and arrived at our destination smoothly.
After signing all the appropriate paperwork, we got our cute 5-seat car and made our way to the Airbnb.
Hot tip: make sure that you book your car far in advance (especially during peak travel season in the summer).
We reached out about a week before our travel dates and they initially only had a 7-seater and a 9-seater available for two of our visit dates. Another traveler must have canceled but we lucked out with securing a smaller car for all four days of our trip.
The AirBnb we booked was a small, family-run inn in the heart of Magong. Our receptionist was their 20-something year-old son who went to the local college nearby. The accommodation was clean and had all the essentials like fast wifi and ac. Our host was extremely gracious, gave us lots of local recommendations, and went above and beyond to help us organize activities and make it the best experience possible.
The Exact AirBnB That We Booked
Dinner at Butterfly Cafe:
After checking in and chatting with the host, we took a little time to get settled.
At that point, it was getting close to dinner time so we went for a quick bite at Butterfly Cafe. We tried to go to another highly-recommended restaurant but they were already fully reserved.
Hot tip: make reservations for dinner beforehand.
We would discover this during our stay, but all the popular restaurants book out in advance. Because it’s a small island with limited supply, restaurants can only serve a certain number of patrons. Make sure that you get a seat at all the tastiest spots by calling in and booking beforehand.
Additionally, always call and check to see if a restaurant or cafe is open before you make your way over. I’m not sure if it’s simply island culture or if it has to do with the overall decrease in travel because of Covid, but we often found that the hours listed online did not necessarily match up with their hours of business and that restaurants and cafes frequently closed early.
Xiying Rainbow Bridge 西瀛虹橋:
Anyway…after a quick bite, my friend and I decided to check out a nearby attraction: Xiying Rainbow Bridge.
The rainbow bridge is one of Penghu’s top landmarks. In the evening, the rainbow lights glow upon the arch and reflect on the sea below it for a whimsical and stunning experience. This is also where they host the annual Penghu Fireworks Festival in early summer. We unfortunately missed it, but it was still a nice experience to take an evening walk and enjoy the lights.
Harbor-Side Chilling:
After a nice post-dinner stroll, we decided to meet up with a friend who was doing a work-exchange on the island. We initially planned to meet at (bar name), but when we arrived, the hosts said that they were all booked out for the night so instead, we grabbed some drinks from 711 and just decided to sit by the harbor for a chat.
Nightlife in Penghu mostly consists of bars and pubs and although a formal atmosphere can certainly be a lot of fun, it isn’t always necessary for a good time. One of the best things about open container laws in Taiwan is that you can basically just grab a drink from the convenience store and settle anywhere for a nice experience. Since we were just catching up with a friend, it was nice to take it easy and enjoy a much more casual, inexpensive, and local night out.
Day 2: Baisha Township, Neian Beach, Cactus Ice Cream, Erkan Historic Village
One of the best things about slow travel is having ample time to fully rest while you vacation. We started the second day slowly with a classic Taiwanese breakfast from a small shop up the street from our AirBnb and stopped by the airport to pick our friend up.
Baisha Township 白沙鄉:
From there, we drove to Baisha Township 白沙鄉 (about a 30-40 min drive) to explore the northern coast. Initially, we thought that there would be a beach for us to lounge at but unfortunately, we were mistaken. We trekked over some really cool coral rock though.
Disappointed in the lack of white sandy beaches as the township’s name would otherwise suggest, we continued our drive down towards the Neian Recreation area. This beachy area is located in Shiyu Township and is another 30 minute drive from Baisha.
Neian Beach 內垵遊憩區:
We parked near the harbor and walked over towards the beach. Neian 內垵遊憩區 is known as a pretty remote beach and when we went, there were no other visitors. The water was warm and the sand was soft. We spent our afternoon lounging around and sunbathing.
Cactus Ice Cream at Yijia
After a long afternoon in the sun, we decided to cool off with some cactus ice cream!
While Penghu is obviously really well-known for its seafood, it’s also really popular for its cactus treats! Because of the (mostly) hot and dry terrain, cactus grows abundantly and a really popular way to consume this fruit is in ice cream form!
We stopped by Yijia on our way back and got a few scoops.
Erkan Historic Village 二崁聚落保存區
Erkan Historic Village 二崁聚落保存區 is a well-preserved residential neighborhood that almost acts as a living museum for visitors. Because this area was cut off from the rest of Taiwan, it preserves almost 300 years of Southern Min culture which can largely be seen through the architecture of the quaint houses and narrow streets.
This village blends the old with the new and offers an insight into how people used to live on Penghu centuries ago but also offers modern amenities and tasty treats for visitors.
We arrived as the sun was setting and most shops in the village had already closed but we did grab a bite of Aiyu 愛玉, a refreshing jelly dessert made from the seeds of the awkeotsang creeping fig native to Taiwan.
This shop owner offered various toppings and we got some local dragon fruit and passion fruit.
We stayed just until the sun set and then set out to return to Magong for dinner. According to the shop lady, most restaurants in the more remote townships close around 6 or 7 and our best bet for a late dinner would be in the main city.
So we grabbed dinner at a random restaurant in the area and then met our friend by the harbor again to hang out.
Day 3: Exploring Outlying Islands (Qimei and Wangan) and Lintou Park/Beach
We decided to spend our third day exploring islands that were a little further out. As I mentioned earlier, Penghu is a collection of islands and each of those islands offers something a little different. Because we only had a total of four days, we had to be really selective about seeing only the most notable ones this time around.
Qimei 七美 and Wangan 望安 are typically grouped together for day trips because they’re geographically in the same direction. Qimei 七美 is the southernmost island in the Penghu archipelago and is most known for its Twin Hearts Stone Weir. Wangan 望安 is the second smallest township in the county and features some stunning untouched landscapes and unique architecture that can only be found on Penghu.
To make the most of our time, we signed up for a pre-arranged tour that would take us to these two islands. The arrangement covers ferry rides, an overview of the highlights, and plenty of time to explore on your own. Unfortunately, because nobody in my group had a valid scooter license, we had to join the grandmas and aunties on sightseeing via tour bus.
Ferry To Qimei
We got to the South Sea Visitor Center early in the morning to board our ferry and then it was smooth sailing from there! The boarding process was extremely streamlined and the ferry offered comfortable seats and air conditioner. If you get seasick, I’d recommend preparing some medicine beforehand because the journey to Qimei takes roughly 90 minutes and the ride back from Wangan takes 50 minutes.
We settled in and took a nap.
Once we got off, passengers dispersed and those who booked motorbikes went ahead and rented them and we were ushered onto a tour bus.
Our first stop on the tour was the iconic Twin Hearts Stone Weir.
Twin Hearts Stone Weir 七美雙心石滬:
A weir is a low dam built across an upstream body of water for the purpose of trapping fish. The people on Qimei island initially built it as a single-pool stone entrapment but it was rebuilt with two pools in 1937, and then officially made a cultural landmark in 2006.
This destination has been used on many tourism brochures and is a must-see when you come to visit Penghu!
Little Taiwan 小台灣:
The worst thing about a guided tour is that you’re on a tight schedule and they often just shuttle you from destination to destination without giving you enough time to truly enjoy the views. We spent about 20 minutes admiring the Twin Hearts Stone Weir and then had to hop on the bus to the next stop: Little Taiwan 小台灣.
Little Taiwan is a wave-cut platform off the coast of Qimei. It resembles the shape of Taiwan and therefore was named as such. Somewhat cool, nothing extraordinary, but just one of those things you have to check off the bucket list, ya know?
Great Stone Lion Recreation Center 大獅龍程風景區:
After snapping photos at Little Taiwan, we stopped by the Great Stone Lion Recreation Center 大獅龍程風景區. It’s essentially a rest stop with small vendors located near an iconic stone lion rock. The rock formation looks like a Chinese guardian lion looking out into the sea.
I tried fish scale jelly for the first time! Fish scales have a high level of extractable collagen so when you boil them down for several hours, you can make them into jelly! This refreshing and mildly sweet dessert was not fishy at all and in fact tasted like any other gelatin dessert.
Great Stone Lion Recreation Center on Google Maps
Wangan
After our break at the recreation center, we hopped back on the tour bus and then got back on the ferry.
Wangan is the second smallest township in Penghu after Qimei and because of how remote and untouched it is, the nature is truly stunning.
Wangankou Beach 網垵口沙灘
Our first stop on this island was the beach! This spot had some really cute architecture and some of the cleanest beaches I’ve ever seen. The sea was crystal blue and the sand absolutely spotless. Our tour guide said that it was often frequented by sea turtles during their nesting season but obviously we didn’t see any as it was daytime.
Tiantai Hill 天台山(呂洞賓足印):
Our tour bus driver then took us all the way to the opposite end of the island for Tiantai Hill where we took a trek and got to finally soak in the views!
From there, we headed back to the port and took the hour-long ferry back to the main island.
Lintou Park 林投公園:
We got back from the tour around 4pm in the afternoon and decided that because it would be a shame to wrap things up for the day, we’d head out and explore Lintou Park instead!
Lintou Park was really close to where we were staying in Magong and is a beautiful public park with well-maintained facilities and even a cute cafe right on the beach! We took a quick stroll around, grabbed some cake and coffee, and then watched the sunset on the beach.
Heads up that there might be some jellyfish around though…
Day 4: Snorkeling at Dongyuping Island (Nandongyu), Viewing Tongpanyu Geology Park, Dongji Island, Sunset On The Coast
A trip to Penghu isn’t the same if you don’t explore the ocean!
Our Airbnb helped us organize a snorkeling experience for our fourth day.
One thing that I love about Taiwanese travel is that they do such a good job organizing safe adventures that are accessible to people of all ages and experiences. A really popular thing to do in Penghu is to go snorkeling or scuba diving and to do so, you don’t even have to be that great at swimming!
These dive centers have one-off experiences where you get paired with trained instructors that guide you through the entire process. You’re given a life vest and are essentially strapped in a small group to the instructor the whole time. While there isn’t a whole bunch of freedom, this way of running the experience allows first-timers to truly experience the sea and all its wonders. It’s a really safe way to introduce individuals to potentially getting certified and trained on their own.
Ferry to Dongyuping Island 東嶼坪嶼
The ferry ride to Dongyuping island where we had reserved snorkeling lessons took approximately 40 minutes. Once again, we departed from the South Sea Visitor Center and the experience was pretty effortless.
Snorkeling In Dongyuping Island 東嶼坪嶼
When we arrived, the instructors walked with us over to the dive center where they explained all the safety procedures for the snorkeling experience.
One thing that I really appreciated was that they asked us to wash off all sunscreen, including “reef-safe” sunscreen. The coral in the area is extremely sensitive and even the smallest bit of sunscreen in high volumes could cause bleaching.
They gave us wetsuits, took our photos, and then we set out!
During the process, you’re given life vests and gloves and asked to grab onto a large floating board. The instructor then essentially tows you out into the sea and explains all the coral underneath. Our guide was fairly young and allowed us to deviate from the group a little so it was really amazing to be able to swim and explore freely.
After having dived in all the mot popular places across Taiwan I can safely say that the stunning lavender corals of Penghu were a must-see!
Lunch & Hiking Bagua Mountain 八卦山
After the snorkeling session, the dive center prepared lunch for everyone! They even made a vegetarian version for our friend.
After lunch, we went for a hike up the highest peak on the island on Bagua Mountain 八卦山. Those that didn’t want to go had the option to stay at the dive center while the rest of us explored.
Truly stunning views all around (and lots of goat poop).
Viewing Tongpan Geology Park 桶盤地質公園
After our hike, it was time to say goodbye to Dongyuping island. We hopped back on the ferry and they took us to view the basalt columns of Tongpanyu Geology Park 桶盤地質公園before swinging over to Dongji Island.
The basalt of Penghu was formed by countless inconsecutive volcanic eruptions during which the lava rose up from beneath the sea and cooled once reaching the surface. The basalt in this region tends to form perpendicular columns and after years of weathering and erosion, results in a stunning display of columnar side-by-side joints.
Tongpanyu Geology Park is an entire island surrounded by columnar basalts that form clear lines and has been dubbed the “Yellowstone of Penghu.” Unfortunately, you can’t actually get off and explore the park as it’s off limits to visitors except for researchers but it is stunning to look at from the boat!
Dongji Island 東吉嶼
Our last stop on the tour was Dongji Island 東吉嶼! The ferry dropped us off and then we were given a few hours to explore either on foot or via scooter. We headed south and walked up a few hills for some stunning views.
Sunset At The Park
This was our last day on the island and we decided to take it easy by watching the sunset on the west coast and enjoying some grass jelly over ice.
Day 5: Breakfast and Back To Taipei
Our flights were in the afternoon so we left the morning open for just a delicious breakfast with handmade egg pancakes and then slowly packed up and made our way over to the airport.
Overall Impressions & Thoughts
Sunsets on Penghu hit differently and if you have the chance to do so, I highly recommend taking some time to explore this collection of islands. I’d love to visit again and spend additional time next year but until then, this is it!