Fabrics 101: Why Natural Fiber Clothing Matters and How To Care for Natural Fabrics
When building a sustainable wardrobe, fabric choice is incredibly important. The textile that your garment is made from can be a key indicator of how sustainably or ethically it was produced. We briefly touched on the importance of natural fiber clothing in the How To Tell If A Clothing Brand is Ethical and Sustainable article, but in case you needed a refresher, here’s why natural fiber clothing matters and how to care for individual fabrics.
Why Should You Switch to Natural Fiber Clothing?
Natural fiber clothing tends to have a smaller environmental footprint than synthetically-made garments (with the exception of cotton). They take less energy to produce and can be more easily recycled. Natural fabrics also feel better against the skin, breathe more easily, and are less likely to cause allergic reactions.
Additionally, a lot of consumers choose natural fabrics because the alternative is just too damaging. Not only is synthetic clothing largely created from petroleum, making it more extractive in the first place, but once it’s created, it continues to contribute to plastic pollution.
With each wash, microplastics (small bits of plastic less than 5 mm in length) are released from synthetic fabrics into our waterways and eventually, into our oceans. This negatively impacts marine life, which eventually negatively impacts humans.
Natural fiber clothing, comparatively, does not shed any microplastics and even decomposes faster—leading to less environmental damage in the long run.
Here Are Five of the Most Commonly Seen Natural Fibers in Garment Production and How To Care For Them
So, if you’re ready to make the switch from conventionally-produced synthetic garments to natural fiber clothing, here’s what you should look out for. General disclaimer on caring for garments: always read the tags of each specific garment for proper care and as an environmental rule of thumb, cold-wash always uses less energy!
1. Linen
Linen is derived from the flax plant and is one of the most sustainable materials for garment production. The plant itself is very hardy and requires little water or pesticides to grow well. Linen is highly durable, gets softer with each wash, and dries faster than cotton--making it a popular choice in the summertime. That being said, be cautious of linen that has been treated with chemicals (ether in the process of separating the fibers or in the dyeing/bleaching of the fabric) as this can have an impact on biodegradability as well as sustainability.
How to Care for Linen:
Generally speaking, linen is very low-maintenance (except for the wrinkle factor). You can machine-wash (or hand-wash, if you prefer) the fabric and the general recommendation is to go with a warm or cool setting as linen does have the potential to shrink when washed on a hot temperature.
Avoid using fabric softeners and bleach on linen clothing, even if it is white. When it comes to drying, feel free to machine dry your garments but remember to stick to low temperatures to avoid shrinkage. Air drying is also a fantastic alternative for this fabric choice because saves energy and linen is very quick to dry.
2. Cotton
You’ve probably heard about the impracticality of cotton by now: it’s an extremely thirsty crop that takes a lot of pesticides to grow commercially. However, there are several good reasons why organic cotton is the standard in sustainable fashion.
From the consumer’s perspective, cotton is a versatile, breathable, durable, and easy-to-care-for fabric that is soft and hypoallergenic. It’s easy to dye and can be used for many different purposes. Because consumer demand for it is so high, it’s only natural that brands are going to seek it as one of their primary fabric options.
To purchase this fabric mindfully, always opt for organic cotton from clothing brands that have been accredited by the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Cotton also has a long history of labor exploitation and companies with certifications from the Fairtrade Initiative or Better Cotton Initiative could be working to combat that.
How to Care for Cotton:
As you probably already know, cotton really isn’t that fussy. It’s a durable fabric that can withstand many wash cycles. That being said, shrinkage is something that tends to happen with cotton garments. Prevent this from happening by washing your clothes on the cold setting (yay, better for the environment anyway) and air drying.
3. Hemp
Hemp--such a versatile and sustainable textile! Hemp fabric is made from the cannabis sativa plant (industrial hemp). It is an incredibly sustainable crop that requires very little water and virtually non pesticides to grow. Interestingly enough, hemp is also very gentle on the environment that it grows in and returns 60-70% of the nutrients that it takes from the soil (source). This fabric is very durable, quick to dry, and relatively cheap to produce ethically (it takes fewer resources to maintain).
How to Care for Hemp:
Again, another easy-to-care-for textile! For the most part, hemp can withstand regular laundering. It gets softer with each wash and can handle varying water temperatures well. Because it is highly durable, hemp garments will last longer than your typical cotton or linen garments (yay, sustainability)!
Wash your hemp clothing in cold water and either air-dry (it’s highly porous and will dry quickly) or machine-dry on your normal setting. Dry cleaning is ineffective (washing it would be more useful) and if the fabric is too tough to begin with, you can soften it running it through a few gentle dryer cycles.
4. Silk
Silk is one of the most luxurious fabrics in the world. It is incredibly soft and timelessly elegant--making it a highly sought-after fabric for garments that come in close contact with the skin (pajamas and undergarments, for example). There has been a lot of backlash from animal cruelty adovocates as the process of obtaining silk requires that you kill the silkworm. Ahimsa Silk has been created as a cruelty-free alternative. The technique that they use allows the moths to leave the cocoon before it is boiled and you can read more about it here.
If you have personally decided that it is ethically okay to wear silk or purchase it secondhand, keep reading for general care instructions!
How to Care for Silk:
Silk is a delicate fabric and is best washed by hand with a mild detergent. Once cleaned, gently squeeze the extra moisture out by rolling it in a towel and hang to dry. Never tumble dry your silk as the high temperature can cause your silks to shrink. Also, when air drying, do not hang your silks in direct sunlight as exposure can cause colors to fade or fibers to get damaged over time.
5. Wool
Wool is a practical fabric to invest in for heavier items like sweaters and coats. It is a natural fabric that if properly cared for, can last you a lifetime (or even longer). There is some concern over whether or not wool is truly a sustainable or ethical textile as it is environmentally costly to raise sheep (trees are cut down and land is cleared) and it can be a challenge to ethically source the fabric.
How to Care for Wool:
Be especially cognizant of the garment label here, but as a general rule of thumb, wool should be hand washed. You can clean your wool with mild detergent and then gently press the excess water out. Wool should be laid flat to dry. Always fold your heavy wool garments to store and keep them in an airtight container away from direct sunlight.
We’ve only just begun to scratch the surface of natural fiber clothing but understanding these five commonly used textiles should give you a basic understanding of how to shop (and care) for sustainable fashion.
Here are a few additional articles to help you get started on your conscious consumer journey: